Medellin

Away from the hot, humid coast the city of Medellin ('Med-a-jean') has a permanent spring-like climate due to its atitude combined with proximity to the equator. It is the second largest city in Colombia and its residents, the savvy paisas, are very proud of their city and of themselves. 

Medellin is notorious for having been the territory of mafia boss Pablo Ecsobar in the 1980s, who was once the largest exporter of cocaine in the world. Escobar founded his own polotical party, two news papers and was elected to congress. Durning the all out war between the mafia and the government, motor cycle hit men were paid $1000 for every police man they killed. Murders, kid-napping and 'narcoterrorism' were common place. However, manay locals saw Escobar as a Robin Hood figure; building hospitals and even offering to pay off Colombia's international debt, which was billions of dollars. 

My guide on the free 'Real City Tour', also caled Pablo, is keen to point out that his city is so much more than its association with Escobar. It has a proud history - founded upon coffee (the climate allows several harvests a year) chocolate and eventually gold - and a bright future due to the government's strict dealings with the drug lords and guerilla rebels. When president Uribe was elected in 2002 kidnappings dropped by 80-90% in one year. Once dangerous public areas were turned into art museums, schools and libraries.

Above: Light display in what was once the most dangerous square in Medellin

Escaltors and cable cars were put on the surrounding hills, home to the poorest of Medellin's residents, giving them pride in their neighborhoods

Above: Cable cars as part of the metro system

What was one the most dangerous cities in the world, plagued by terrorism, corruption and poverty, is now looking ahead, particularly in regards to tourism with forigners coming to eat in its organic cafes, shop in its malls and ride Colombia's only metro system which is cheap, graffiti free and the pride of the Paisas.

This positive attitude toward tourism is something I have noticed thoughout Colombia, whose tourism slogan is 'Colombia: the only risk is not wanting to leave'. People are friendly and welcoming and I have felt safer here than Ecuador with its 'express kidnappings'* or Peru with its corrupt police. In Medellin the police ride segways and in Cartagena they wear shorts. Colombia is still the world's largest exportor of cocaine but, as the goverment points out, destorying the crops by polluting the land and the rivers does nothing but damage unless demand from the west decreases.

Above: Public art galleries

* Taxi drivers work with petty criminals, holding people hostange while their ATM accounts are drained.