From Cochin we decide to head north to Kolkata, a forty hour journey which we break up by spending a few days in the tacky (think Buddha figurines made of seashells) seaside town of Mamallapuram, two hours south of Chennai. The town is made up of narrow streets and colourfully painted houses set back from a filfthy beach, which seems to always be deserted. We rent bicycles to explore the surrounding area and temples but other than that there is not much to do but sit around in touristy cafes, all of which have the same menu. We can't find a local restaurant anywhere.
Above: Mamallapuram
The train from Chennai to Kolkata takes thirty hours but the time goes surprisingly quickly. Our hostel is on 'Sudder Street' - the main traveller area in Kolkata - and very cheap. Our room is on the flat roof of the hostel. It has brick walls and a corrugated iron roof which heats the small space up very quickly. There is a loud fan which moves the hot air around. The shower and loo are in another tin hut across the roof.
That evening we meet up with our friend from University who lives in Kolkata. Akshay greets us with a goody bag of tea and hand made note cards and paper, then shows us around the city in style, starting with a drive around the city in his car with AC - what luxury! He then takes us to 'Flurry's', an English style tea room, where we have cakes and cold coffee. We have shisha with some of his friends, then go out for dinner at an amazing little resturant where we have butter paneer, aloo dopiatza and butter naan.
It is much nicer than some of the places we have eaten, but Akshay's family are apparently shocked that he would bring guests there - although we had asked to go to a place he would eat at with friends. Akshay is also surprised that we are eating the food on the trains, saying that he never does. He is amazed that we haven't gotten ill yet. As if he hadn't already shown us incredible hospitality, Akshay gives us his sister's number, as he has to go out of town the next day, and we arrange to go shopping with her. All his friends give us their numbers too, and tell us to get in touch if we need anything at all through out our trip. It is so nice and such a relief to know someone in the city who we know and we can trust.
Above: River Hoogly, Kolkata
Above: Victoria Memorial
The next day is Holi, the festival of colours, celebrated by throwing coloured powers and paints. It is a family holiday mainly celebrated in the home, so the streets are fairly deserted except for a few travellers some what half heartedly smearing each other with paint. We had planned to do some sight seeing, but everything is closed. On the way back to the hostel we are spotted as being paint free, and get purple and pink paint rubbed in our faces. It takes days to come off and dyes my hair pink.
In the evening I eat an amazing 'Kati Roll', an egg fried partha filled with paneer (unfermented cheese), chicken or veg as well as onions, chilly sauce and lime juice. They are cooked to order and served rolled up in a paper bag and piping hot. It is the most delicious thing I have eaten in India so far and i'm glad to hear that they can be found all over the north.
Above: Kati rolls
My Kati roll is washed down with a chai, served in Kolkata's famous teracotta cups. The idea is that after you've drunk your chai, the cup gets smashed on the ground so that it can't be reused - the gutters are filled with broken pieces of pottery, until it rains and they eventually disintegrate. I keep mine, in fact I buy serveral more wihout even wanting the chai so that I have a set. A large cup costs 15rs, about 20p, and i'm sure that these rustic cups would sell for a lot more in the UK. I'm tempted to start up a Kati roll and terracotta cup chai cafe when I get home.
Above: Chai Wallah and terracotta cups.
Above: Mamallapuram
The train from Chennai to Kolkata takes thirty hours but the time goes surprisingly quickly. Our hostel is on 'Sudder Street' - the main traveller area in Kolkata - and very cheap. Our room is on the flat roof of the hostel. It has brick walls and a corrugated iron roof which heats the small space up very quickly. There is a loud fan which moves the hot air around. The shower and loo are in another tin hut across the roof.
That evening we meet up with our friend from University who lives in Kolkata. Akshay greets us with a goody bag of tea and hand made note cards and paper, then shows us around the city in style, starting with a drive around the city in his car with AC - what luxury! He then takes us to 'Flurry's', an English style tea room, where we have cakes and cold coffee. We have shisha with some of his friends, then go out for dinner at an amazing little resturant where we have butter paneer, aloo dopiatza and butter naan.
It is much nicer than some of the places we have eaten, but Akshay's family are apparently shocked that he would bring guests there - although we had asked to go to a place he would eat at with friends. Akshay is also surprised that we are eating the food on the trains, saying that he never does. He is amazed that we haven't gotten ill yet. As if he hadn't already shown us incredible hospitality, Akshay gives us his sister's number, as he has to go out of town the next day, and we arrange to go shopping with her. All his friends give us their numbers too, and tell us to get in touch if we need anything at all through out our trip. It is so nice and such a relief to know someone in the city who we know and we can trust.
Above: River Hoogly, Kolkata
Above: Victoria Memorial
The next day is Holi, the festival of colours, celebrated by throwing coloured powers and paints. It is a family holiday mainly celebrated in the home, so the streets are fairly deserted except for a few travellers some what half heartedly smearing each other with paint. We had planned to do some sight seeing, but everything is closed. On the way back to the hostel we are spotted as being paint free, and get purple and pink paint rubbed in our faces. It takes days to come off and dyes my hair pink.
In the evening I eat an amazing 'Kati Roll', an egg fried partha filled with paneer (unfermented cheese), chicken or veg as well as onions, chilly sauce and lime juice. They are cooked to order and served rolled up in a paper bag and piping hot. It is the most delicious thing I have eaten in India so far and i'm glad to hear that they can be found all over the north.
Above: Kati rolls
My Kati roll is washed down with a chai, served in Kolkata's famous teracotta cups. The idea is that after you've drunk your chai, the cup gets smashed on the ground so that it can't be reused - the gutters are filled with broken pieces of pottery, until it rains and they eventually disintegrate. I keep mine, in fact I buy serveral more wihout even wanting the chai so that I have a set. A large cup costs 15rs, about 20p, and i'm sure that these rustic cups would sell for a lot more in the UK. I'm tempted to start up a Kati roll and terracotta cup chai cafe when I get home.
Above: Chai Wallah and terracotta cups.
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