We spend a couple of days in Pokhara planning our trek. We decide to trek in the Annapurna region in the Himalayas, going to the base camps of Annapurna 1, and Machuhapuchhre - 'Fishtail Mountian' then back in a circut via a view point called 'Poon Hill'. The trek should take 10 days and we will stay in 'tea houses', a combination of a restaurant and very basic guest house, of which there are hundreds all around the park. We rent down jackets and sleeping bags as we are told it could get as low as minus 10 at base camp. As food and drink gets more and more expensive the further into the park you get - because someone has to carry it up - we also buy porridge to mix with milk tea (the cheapest drink you can get) for breakfasts. We ask around as to whether we should get a guide and/or a porter, but decide to go for the cheaper option - a map. Eveyone tells us that the paths are well sign posted and there will always be someone around to ask for directions. With our sleeping bags, jackets, water proofs, a change of clothes, some food, a first aid kit, soap and tooth brushes our bags only weigh around 5-8 kilos. Porters carry at least 30 and often more, so we definitely don't need one.
Day 1. Pokhara to Phedi
On the day we decide to leave there is a political strike in Pokhara, so there are no buses or taxis going to the base of the mountain. Against the advice of our guest house owner we decide to walk, which is a mistake. It takes 8 hours along dusty roads, up paths slippery with dry leaves and through smoggy, dirty and busy towns. When we eventually get to the base of the moutain we have to climb stone steps for another half an hour to get to the first tea house, only to find out that it is not a tea house but a hotel, wanting $30 for a room. But the bizarrely placed hotel is empty, and we haggle them down to 500 rupees (about $5 dollars). I collapse on the bed exhausted and dreading the next 10 days.
Day 2. Phedi to Landruk
We begin walking at 6:30 after our porridge breakfast (which tastes amazing - from now on I am always eating my porridge with sweet, milky tea). Despite the half hour climb the day before we still have another hour and a half of steps to the next town of Dhampus (1650m). I am relieved to find it not too difficult, although it is my walking pole which does most of the work and I am so relieved that I have it (Thankyou Fitzgeralds!). I am also relived that cokes are still only 65 rupees (by the end of the day they will be 100). The climb up is cool because it is so early and people are coming out of their houses to wash and prepare breakfast. There is not much of a view as it is still quite muggy. After our cokes (at a real tea house this time) we press on.
Our destination is the town of Landruk. We pass through woods and over suspension bridges and often pass donkey trains carrying kerosene tanks, baskets of chickens and other supplies. They all have bells around their necks so we hear them 'coming round the mountain' long before we see them. There is a tea house every hour, we pass and talk to lots of people (trekkers, locals and porters) and the scenery is amazing and getting better the furher into the park we get. All of this makes me much more optimistic about the days ahead. The view from our tea house in Landruk is both amazing and daunting. I can see all the way across the valley to the town of Chomrong, our destination tomorrow. It looks very far away and even higher than Landruk. In the valley below I can hear the river, and know that we will have to walk all the way down to it in the morning before we can start the climb to Chomrong. But before that I can swap my walking boots for flip flops, put on leggings and a fleece, order dinner and relax before a 7:30 bed time.
Day 3. Landruk to Chomrong
It is odd starting our day with our destination in sight. Chomrong is just across the valley, but before we get there we have to walk from Landruk at 1640 meters, all the way down to 'New Bridge' at 1340m, cross the river, traverse the side of one hill to cross another river and clim to the town of Jhinudanda at 1780m and perched on an out-crop below Chromrong - 2170m. Although we are half way up, we decide to trek back down to the river on the other side of Jhinudanda in order to visit a hot spring. The two hour climb there and back is worth it. The spring has been turned into a pool with a slate floor, sides and benches. The water is almost too warm and I feel tired and dizzy when I get out, but I can feel the coolness coming off the the icy river beside us. We soak our sore feet and shoulders before the climb back to Jhinudanda and the steep steps up to Chomrong, where we are rewarded with the first views of our mountains.
Day 1. Pokhara to Phedi
On the day we decide to leave there is a political strike in Pokhara, so there are no buses or taxis going to the base of the mountain. Against the advice of our guest house owner we decide to walk, which is a mistake. It takes 8 hours along dusty roads, up paths slippery with dry leaves and through smoggy, dirty and busy towns. When we eventually get to the base of the moutain we have to climb stone steps for another half an hour to get to the first tea house, only to find out that it is not a tea house but a hotel, wanting $30 for a room. But the bizarrely placed hotel is empty, and we haggle them down to 500 rupees (about $5 dollars). I collapse on the bed exhausted and dreading the next 10 days.
View of the Pokhara Valley from our Hotel with Phedi below
Day 2. Phedi to Landruk
We begin walking at 6:30 after our porridge breakfast (which tastes amazing - from now on I am always eating my porridge with sweet, milky tea). Despite the half hour climb the day before we still have another hour and a half of steps to the next town of Dhampus (1650m). I am relieved to find it not too difficult, although it is my walking pole which does most of the work and I am so relieved that I have it (Thankyou Fitzgeralds!). I am also relived that cokes are still only 65 rupees (by the end of the day they will be 100). The climb up is cool because it is so early and people are coming out of their houses to wash and prepare breakfast. There is not much of a view as it is still quite muggy. After our cokes (at a real tea house this time) we press on.
Above: Inside a Tea House Kitchen
Our destination is the town of Landruk. We pass through woods and over suspension bridges and often pass donkey trains carrying kerosene tanks, baskets of chickens and other supplies. They all have bells around their necks so we hear them 'coming round the mountain' long before we see them. There is a tea house every hour, we pass and talk to lots of people (trekkers, locals and porters) and the scenery is amazing and getting better the furher into the park we get. All of this makes me much more optimistic about the days ahead. The view from our tea house in Landruk is both amazing and daunting. I can see all the way across the valley to the town of Chomrong, our destination tomorrow. It looks very far away and even higher than Landruk. In the valley below I can hear the river, and know that we will have to walk all the way down to it in the morning before we can start the climb to Chomrong. But before that I can swap my walking boots for flip flops, put on leggings and a fleece, order dinner and relax before a 7:30 bed time.
Above: Donkey Train
Above: Steps!
Above: Views from Landruk
Above: Drying Wheat
Day 3. Landruk to Chomrong
It is odd starting our day with our destination in sight. Chomrong is just across the valley, but before we get there we have to walk from Landruk at 1640 meters, all the way down to 'New Bridge' at 1340m, cross the river, traverse the side of one hill to cross another river and clim to the town of Jhinudanda at 1780m and perched on an out-crop below Chromrong - 2170m. Although we are half way up, we decide to trek back down to the river on the other side of Jhinudanda in order to visit a hot spring. The two hour climb there and back is worth it. The spring has been turned into a pool with a slate floor, sides and benches. The water is almost too warm and I feel tired and dizzy when I get out, but I can feel the coolness coming off the the icy river beside us. We soak our sore feet and shoulders before the climb back to Jhinudanda and the steep steps up to Chomrong, where we are rewarded with the first views of our mountains.
Above: View from tea house in Chomrong
(Annapurna 1 on the left, Machhapuchhare on the right)
Above: Hot Springs
Above: Looking down on Jhinudanda
(Landruk on the left down the valley, Ghandruk on the right)
Above: New Bridge
Above: New Bridge
5 more days and lots more photos to come, the internet (and life) is very slow in Pokhara!
Absolutely Beautiful! Glad the Stick & Buff are getting lots of use. - So jealous xx Ex
ReplyDeleteIt all looks so lovely but hard work. I think I would enjoy the hot springs the most. Luv Murv
ReplyDelete