We chose Palolem beach in Goa because other travelers had told us that it was more chilled out than other beaches in Goa. Our guide book described it as 'paradise'. It was neither.
The main street is lined with shops, all selling the same things - bags, jewelry, clothes and wooden boxes. There seems to be no concept of the gap in the market. There are a few cafes serving fruit juices, pancakes and omelets. One, called 'Little World' - wedged in an alley and run by a mad, long haired, shirtless Indian and his sari clad Dutch wife - claims to serve the best chai in India. Its ok, too much ginger and too much dancing from the mad owner.
The strip of land between the beach and the main street consists of a labrythn of paths winding around palm trees, bamboo huts and out-door kitchens with wood fires. Pigs, chickens and goats roam around the coralls of cheaper beach huts (no sea view). These huts are occupied by the 'long stay' travellers, who stay for the entire season, and don't seem to do much except sit on their porches all day and smoke. In the evenings the sounds of stray dogs fighting are added to the thud of coconuts falling on tarpaulin roofs and the distant beat of music from the beach bars.
Resturants serving Italian, Mexican, Israeli, lots of fish and some Indian strech from one end of the mile long beach to the other. They all have wicker chairs and tables and play rave music until the 22:00 amplified music curfew. In the evenings the sun loungers come in and the tables go out. Hoards of sun burnt tourists sit in rows facing the sea, drinking cocktails and eating the catch of the day.
It may not sound so awful but it is not what we were expecting. Too many people! It seems like a good holiday location - a little bubble where all the menus are in English and women can walk around in shorts - but not great for travelling and seeing 'the real India'. We had originally itended to stay for 5 days. After breakfast in one beach resturant, politley refusing pleads to visit every shop on the high street, a swim, lunch in another resturant (exactly the same as the first), walking the length of the beach and then onto the next beach, we realise we have done everything there is to do and plan to leave as soon as possible. In the evening we watch the film 'The Life of Pi' in an outdoor cinema and the next day book the over night bus to Hampi. It leaves on saturday, so we have some time to kill. The next two days are spent swimming, reading, sunbathing in short bursts until the sun gets to hot and we have to run to the nearest bar, our feet burning on the sand. We eagerly plan the next few weeks. I feel guilty for wasting travelling time on the beach, and slightly less guilty for wanting to leave 'paradise' as soon as possible.
The main street is lined with shops, all selling the same things - bags, jewelry, clothes and wooden boxes. There seems to be no concept of the gap in the market. There are a few cafes serving fruit juices, pancakes and omelets. One, called 'Little World' - wedged in an alley and run by a mad, long haired, shirtless Indian and his sari clad Dutch wife - claims to serve the best chai in India. Its ok, too much ginger and too much dancing from the mad owner.
The strip of land between the beach and the main street consists of a labrythn of paths winding around palm trees, bamboo huts and out-door kitchens with wood fires. Pigs, chickens and goats roam around the coralls of cheaper beach huts (no sea view). These huts are occupied by the 'long stay' travellers, who stay for the entire season, and don't seem to do much except sit on their porches all day and smoke. In the evenings the sounds of stray dogs fighting are added to the thud of coconuts falling on tarpaulin roofs and the distant beat of music from the beach bars.
Above: Alex on the porch of our beach hut
Above: Palolem Beach from a distance
Resturants serving Italian, Mexican, Israeli, lots of fish and some Indian strech from one end of the mile long beach to the other. They all have wicker chairs and tables and play rave music until the 22:00 amplified music curfew. In the evenings the sun loungers come in and the tables go out. Hoards of sun burnt tourists sit in rows facing the sea, drinking cocktails and eating the catch of the day.
Above: Cows on the beach
It may not sound so awful but it is not what we were expecting. Too many people! It seems like a good holiday location - a little bubble where all the menus are in English and women can walk around in shorts - but not great for travelling and seeing 'the real India'. We had originally itended to stay for 5 days. After breakfast in one beach resturant, politley refusing pleads to visit every shop on the high street, a swim, lunch in another resturant (exactly the same as the first), walking the length of the beach and then onto the next beach, we realise we have done everything there is to do and plan to leave as soon as possible. In the evening we watch the film 'The Life of Pi' in an outdoor cinema and the next day book the over night bus to Hampi. It leaves on saturday, so we have some time to kill. The next two days are spent swimming, reading, sunbathing in short bursts until the sun gets to hot and we have to run to the nearest bar, our feet burning on the sand. We eagerly plan the next few weeks. I feel guilty for wasting travelling time on the beach, and slightly less guilty for wanting to leave 'paradise' as soon as possible.
Above: Sunset
Just trying to post a comment as I don't think I have had any luck before. Signing in on my gmail account to do so. Hampi sounds a bit more authentic than Goa.
ReplyDeleteHampi post coming up soon - much better than Goa!
ReplyDelete