Arriving in Hampi

Having taken the night bus (a very bumpy ride in little pods arranged similarly to the train but more claustrophobic), we arrive in Hampi on what is called the 'other' side of the river. We walk down to the river to see the other, other side, which is home to the town, Hampi bazaar, and the main temple. The sun is rising over the boulders between which the river runs, and across the water I can see hundereds of people walking down a massive flight of steps to wash in the river; women on the left, men on the right. They are all carrying bags of laundry which they wash and beat on the rocks. From the temple we can hear singing and chanting which bounces of the surrounding rocks. This is what we came for, not tourist filled beaches. We decide to cross and find accommodation in town to save paying for the boat over every day, although the side we are on is dedicated almost exclusively to traveler hostels. The boat costs 10 rupees and 5 for a bag and it takes less than a minute to cross the small stretch of water. When we get to the other side we walk up the steps against the flow of people coming the other way.

Above: Across the river

 In Mumbai a fellow traveller who had just come from Hampi told us that, when she was there, all the illegal buildings in the bazaar (which is most of them) were knocked down, but were being rebuilt as she left. We don't see any evidence of rebuilding as we walk around the small town and the new ruins don't relly measure up to the old ruins the town is famous for. Mabe in 1000 years people will be coming to see them as well. Pobably not. In the small part of town that is left we can't find accommodation for less than 600rupees a night, and we head back to the 'other' side where we get a hut with an attached bathroom for 400. The major selling point is the terrace cafe with views over the river and a breeze.

Above: The view from our hostel