On the evening of our only night in Amritsar we get a place in a shared jeep and drive to the Pakistan-India border for the boarder closing ceremony. In contrast to the Golden Temple this is much bigger than I had expected. Controlled by mounted guards with batons and whistles there are hundreds of people queuing and pushing up against barriers behind a small stadium. We go through several security checks before being seated on concrete bleachers along a road leading to a huge wall and gate separating India and Pakistan.
The atmosphere is a combination of Disney show and a football game. There is loud, up beat music from speakers and people dancing in the asiles (the Disney show) and people selling small Indian flags and hats guards blowing whistles furiously and various chants being passed back and forth over the wall (the football game). Food and drinks vendors walk up and down the steps and people take it in turns to run up and down the road leading to the gate with Indian flags.
The ceremony begins and I wonder about the coordination required with the Pakistani side, do they phone and say "we're ready, are you?" or just chat through the gate - the whole rivals thing an act? Drums start, accompanied by a brass band and whistles. There is lots of stamping from the guards and the cheering from the crowds as the Indian guards begin a speed march down the road to the gate. Presumably the guards on the Pakistani side are doing the same. Again I wonder about the organisation of the whole thing. When did both sides get together to arrange the whole thing? Do they practice together when no one is watching?
I can just glimpse the Pakistani side through the gate and they are wearing the same uniforms as the Indian guards but in black, not red. I can't see what happens when both sets get to the gate, but I assume it is more stamping. This goes on for about fifteen minutes with a lot of very impressive high leg kicks, some which go straight up to the forehead. The crowds on the Pakistani side of the wall shout "PAKISTAN" and the crowds on our side shout "HINDUSTAN" in response. Suddenly everything ends, the gates are ceremonially locked and everyone floods out still in high sprits and everything will take place again the next night.
The atmosphere is a combination of Disney show and a football game. There is loud, up beat music from speakers and people dancing in the asiles (the Disney show) and people selling small Indian flags and hats guards blowing whistles furiously and various chants being passed back and forth over the wall (the football game). Food and drinks vendors walk up and down the steps and people take it in turns to run up and down the road leading to the gate with Indian flags.
The ceremony begins and I wonder about the coordination required with the Pakistani side, do they phone and say "we're ready, are you?" or just chat through the gate - the whole rivals thing an act? Drums start, accompanied by a brass band and whistles. There is lots of stamping from the guards and the cheering from the crowds as the Indian guards begin a speed march down the road to the gate. Presumably the guards on the Pakistani side are doing the same. Again I wonder about the organisation of the whole thing. When did both sides get together to arrange the whole thing? Do they practice together when no one is watching?
I can just glimpse the Pakistani side through the gate and they are wearing the same uniforms as the Indian guards but in black, not red. I can't see what happens when both sets get to the gate, but I assume it is more stamping. This goes on for about fifteen minutes with a lot of very impressive high leg kicks, some which go straight up to the forehead. The crowds on the Pakistani side of the wall shout "PAKISTAN" and the crowds on our side shout "HINDUSTAN" in response. Suddenly everything ends, the gates are ceremonially locked and everyone floods out still in high sprits and everything will take place again the next night.
I love your description of this ceremony; I too want to know whether or not the two countries liaise with regard to the timings. Thank you for sharing this with us. Luv Murv
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