Only three hours away from sunny Santiago, the coastal town of Valparaiso is freezing. My first impression of the town isn't great - a grey market square with no stalls, a cold wind blowing litter around my feet and stoney faced locals in big coats. It's what I imagine Russia to look like. However our hostel is small and cozy and the next morning we go on another excellent 'tours-for-tips' which completely changes my impression of the town (helped massively by the sun coming out). In the main square we meet Lucas, dressed as Where's Wally, and the usual stray dogs... dressed as stray dogs. Valparaiso has an amazing history. Founded as a port for Santiago it became hugely important during the California gold rush when ships stopped there after going around the treacherous Cape Horn. When the Panama canal was built the thriving city went into decline. Around the main square and on its surrounding streets, the now neglected homes of rich traders serve as reminders of when it was filled with people buying and selling.
As Lucas tells us all this, there is a very comedic moment when a multilingual 'usually very intelligent but sometimes drunk' homeless man tries to join the tour. He talks to us all in Spanish, French and some English, then makes a show of being very sad when Lucas shoos him away. Then another man comes over trying to sell children's books and one of the dogs attached to our group takes a dislike to him, jumping up and biting the books. At the same time the homeless man tries to jump on a passing boy's skate board. They run into the dog and the book seller and everyone falls in a heap. All of this is watched by military police who refuse to laugh. Lucas gives up trying to tell us the history of the square and we move into the narrow lanes which stretch into the surrounding hills.
Valparaiso is famous for its houses, perched on the steep hills, ignoring earthquakes, and not one painted in a single colour. After surviving Cape Horn ships would be repainted and drop off their 'ballasts', weights used to steady the ship in rough waters. These were usually corrugated iron sheets and not needed for the final sail north. Locals have carried on the tradition of protecting their earth houses from the sea breeze and stormy weather with the iron sheets and protecting the iron sheets with left over paint, creating a patchwork of colour and houses made out of any material available. When a shiny modern building was built on the high street locals protested that it didn't match Valparaiso’s historic charm and traditions. The city is now a world heritage site and no more shiny buildings are constructed.
Valparaiso is also famous for its street art, which covers most surfaces. Porteñas ('port people', the name for people from Valparaiso) hate 'tags' - graffiti done by gangs to mark their territory. Therefore almost every house, and any other surface, has artwork on it as gangs won't graffiti over paintings and murals.
The colourful houses and crazy art work are in stark contrast to the miserable impression I got of city when I first stepped off the bus, but despite their stoney faces Porteñas are very proud of their city and its history. Its quirky charm has attracted many poets and musicians who are part of a movement to restore the city to it's former glory.
As Lucas tells us all this, there is a very comedic moment when a multilingual 'usually very intelligent but sometimes drunk' homeless man tries to join the tour. He talks to us all in Spanish, French and some English, then makes a show of being very sad when Lucas shoos him away. Then another man comes over trying to sell children's books and one of the dogs attached to our group takes a dislike to him, jumping up and biting the books. At the same time the homeless man tries to jump on a passing boy's skate board. They run into the dog and the book seller and everyone falls in a heap. All of this is watched by military police who refuse to laugh. Lucas gives up trying to tell us the history of the square and we move into the narrow lanes which stretch into the surrounding hills.
Valparaiso is famous for its houses, perched on the steep hills, ignoring earthquakes, and not one painted in a single colour. After surviving Cape Horn ships would be repainted and drop off their 'ballasts', weights used to steady the ship in rough waters. These were usually corrugated iron sheets and not needed for the final sail north. Locals have carried on the tradition of protecting their earth houses from the sea breeze and stormy weather with the iron sheets and protecting the iron sheets with left over paint, creating a patchwork of colour and houses made out of any material available. When a shiny modern building was built on the high street locals protested that it didn't match Valparaiso’s historic charm and traditions. The city is now a world heritage site and no more shiny buildings are constructed.
Valparaiso is also famous for its street art, which covers most surfaces. Porteñas ('port people', the name for people from Valparaiso) hate 'tags' - graffiti done by gangs to mark their territory. Therefore almost every house, and any other surface, has artwork on it as gangs won't graffiti over paintings and murals.
The colourful houses and crazy art work are in stark contrast to the miserable impression I got of city when I first stepped off the bus, but despite their stoney faces Porteñas are very proud of their city and its history. Its quirky charm has attracted many poets and musicians who are part of a movement to restore the city to it's former glory.
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