Wednesday, 7 August 2013

Mount Kinabalu. Day 1

The Lonely Planet guide book insists we should book our trek up Mount Kinabalu, south east Asia's highest mountain and the 'Roof of Borneo', months in advance. Alex and I decide this is nonsense and sure enough, when we arrive in Kota Kinabalu and head to the park office they are fully booked for the day we want to trek, but have two spaces the day after.

Unlike trekking in Nepal, climbing Kinabalu requires a guide, insurance, permits and pre-booked accommodation. Although we prefer doing things independently, accommodation in the park is monopolized by Sutera Sanctuary Lodges and it turns out to be cheaper to book the whole lot through them. For the same amount of money we spent on eight days trekking in Nepal we get a guide, climbing insurance, permits, accommodation and five meals (lunch, dinner, breakfast, second breakfast and afternoon tea). Its expensive but there is no way were not going to do it and I'm sure I can make my money back at the buffet.



 The trek will take just two days and is a mere 8.7km to the top at 4095m. Easy peasy... It is only 6km to Laban Rata, where we will spend the 'night' before waking up at 2:00 in time to reach the summit for sunrise. The first 4km are fine - easy paths through jungle with the occasional flight of wooden steps. I chat to our 'guide' (whose job is to walk behind us and make sure we dont get lost on the one path up the mountain) and he tells me that he climbs the mountain three times a week and has done for three years. While we are hobbling around looking for a cheap massage the day after we finish, he will be going up again.



When we break for lunch we begin to notice how cold it is getting and we don't stop for long. The path between 4km and 6km is very different - steep and rocky and after just 10 minutes of walking I feel awful. My chest feels tight and I have a pounding headache. Alex goes ahead and I take it very slowly, our guide patiently waiting for me. I ask him if any one ever gives up and he nods and looks worried, but I assure him that I will keep going. By 5km I feel nautious and I have to stop and catch my breath every 10 steps or so.



At 14:00, half an hour after Alex, I somehow make it to Laban Rata, which consists of a collection of small huts and one main building with a restaurant. I fall asleep at a table while Alex checks us in. She wakes me with the news that we have been up-graded. Instead of an un-heated dorm we are staying in a private twin; heated, en-suite bathroom (hot shower, towels, soap), sheets and blankets, kettle, hair dryer, AMAZING. I have a hot chocolate and several helpings from the buffet, which is open from 16:30, and by 19:00 I'm asleep.




1 comment:

  1. Looking forward to hearing about day2! Luv Murv

    ReplyDelete