Sapa

Having spent a few days in Hanoi I head north to the mountain town of Sapa. A lot like Darjeeling and Dharamsala in India, Sapa is ugly town in beautiful surroundings and filled with tribes people who have walked from their villages to sell their handicrafts.

Above: The Road to Sapa






Above:Sapa

There are five tribes around Sapa, the Red Dao and the White, Green, Black, and Flower H'mong. The largest group is the black H'mong, at around 900 in the immediate area. The Black H'mong walk around Sapa in their magnificent traditional costumes made of indigo dyed hemp. On top they wear dark blue (almost black) tunics which reach below the waist and are secured with a thick, embroidered belt around the stomach. They then wear balck cullots to the knees, and black leg warmers tied with more embroidery around their calves. On their heads they either wear conical hats (again black) or fill their long hair with silver clips and combs. 

They wear all the jewelery which they are trying to sell, meaning their arms, necks and wrists are all choked with silver. Their ears are long from their heavy earings and many of them have gold teeth. I think the whole thing looks amazing; practical, comfortable and most of all strong - particuarly due to the babies as old as two strapped to their backs all day, which they have carried for hours from their village, along with everything they are going to sell while H'mong men ride around on motorbikes. 

Above: Black H'mong Selling Cushion Covers

They have excellent English and approach tourists in the market, asking the usual questions (Where are you from? What's your name? Is this your first time in Sapa?) then they get to the point - "What are you doing while in Sapa? Trekking?". There are plenty of trekking agencies in Sapa, but my guide book and other tourists have warned me against using them as they are expensive, touristy and don't employ local people such as the H'mong. 

Instead the best way to arrange a trek and home stay is to wait until you are approached in the street and a home stay is offered. Within half an hour of arriving in the town I am approached by two women, one with a sleeping baby strapped to her back. They are sisters called Mu (24) and Tsu (22). Mu has three children aged 6, 3 and 9 months (the very happy baby on her back - Chan) and Tsu has two children aged 4 and 18 months. They ask me where I'm from, how old I am and if I'm married. They say,

 "You're 23 and not married!? If you were a Black H'mong you would have been married for 8 years already and have three children!". 

They ask if I would like to come and stay in their village, and I say that I would, but I have to talk to my friend Charlotte, who is arriving tomorrow.  

Above: Mu and Chang



By the time I catch up with Charlotte she tells me that she has also been taking to a Black H'mong woman offering a home stay and, since the day before, I have spoke to two more women. We are struggling to choose one when Mu ans Tsu walk past, and are thrilled when I recognise them and remember their names. They must speak to tens of tourists a day, none of whom recognise them as they all look fairly similar in their tribal wear. 

They ask again about the visiting their village and I say,

"But everyone invites us, we can't choose!"

"So just come with us!", they say.

I can't fault their logic so we 'book' two days of trekking and an over night stay in their home. Booking involves agreeing a price ($35) and a pinky promise to meet tomorrow at the church at 9:30.